On the search for the best fried-fish in the country, we went straight to the top. No we didn’t go to Cadiz, Malaga or Huelva. Instead we visited Sanlucar la Mayor, a village in the province of Seville. Though it is widely famous for solar energy production, the Adrià brothers have made it famous for their cuisine as well.
The self-proclaimed popes of gastronomy are the founders of Alhucemas. Traditional cuisine prepared with a minimalist technique defines the culinary ideology here. The brothers began learning their craft on the shores of the Mediterranean and have since mastered the techniques without pretension.
We advise you to start with the extraordinary lobster salad. From here you can delve into the house specialty of fried fish. The technique used to create the dish is simple yet complex, in that each ingredient decisively influences the quality of the dish. Dishes are lightweight, with touches of lemon and virgin olive oil. The fish croquettes, void of any fat, are coated with a fine batter that will leave a pleasant taste of nutmeg lingering on your palate.
Continue your dining experience with mini cuttlefish fresh from the iron skillet, doused with green sauce. If you wish to taste something other than marine life, try the pincho moruno lamb with couscous. However, your meal at Alhucemas is not complete until you try the rice and fideuás. This dish, of black fideuás and clams in a garlic and olive oil, truly reflects the elegance of the restaurant in both presentation and taste.
The desserts at Alhucemas are outstanding. Each is homemade and accompanied by a Moorish mint tea. We tried the Pannacotta cookie with cane honey, the lemon mousse and the bonbons. Each is sensationally sweet, just the way we like it.
Text: José Ignacio Pérez y J M Álvarez
Photos: Elo Vázquez
Translation: Anna Sandreuter