After opening in Polanco and in Santa Fe, the idea of a location in Juárez sprang up three years ago, to position their brand in a community on the rise. The atmosphere is relaxed, and the best way to eat at Bellopuerto is to order food for the whole table to share.
Conscious that success has nuances that vary constantly, they looked for the moment to distinguish themselves from the concept of a “seafood restaurant” in order to identify themselves culinarily as a restaurant that specializes in seafood. They’ve achieved it beautifully by using a grand paradox in their favor: becoming part of the repertoire of their clientele by being consistent, but at the same time, evolving along with them.
The chef Omar Díaz Valderrama, trained in the Basque Country, recommended that we start with the Tostada Nalgueada, a base of Mérida tuna belly, habanero pepper and red onion, followed by a Tostada of Salmon Chicharrones, whose crispy skin is served atop thin slices of avocado, chipotle mayonnaise, and a few drops of Valentina hot sauce. To be served hot, the Scorched Octopus comes to the table on a hot grill, marinated in an annatto sauce and served with garden vegetables. Sharing it is difficult: seared at more than 400 degrees Celsius, it’s crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, with a spicy flavor that’s also somewhat sweet. To finish filling us up: the Cursed Aguachile with tuna and prawns pickled (or more like drowned) in lemon juice, a clam sauce of mule and Clamato juice, completes your meal. From March to July, they take advantage of the mango season to prepare the fruit as a dessert, whole, juiced, with Miguelito powder and Chamoy. If returning to the office bathed in mango isn’t an option, the artisanal seasonal ice creams or the Oaxacan dark chocolate cake with chocolate tequila mousse are two excellent and tempting alternatives.
In Bellopuerto, they do things with the knowledge that their business is aligned with a sense of social responsibility. They understand that their employees are daily heroes with real problems, which they can discuss in favorable times and places. They are listened to with the purpose of showing them, through group meditations, that they are free beings responsible for their own destinies. Even at the level of the fishermen, they have providers who live by the concept of “responsible fishing,” even if this involves last-minute changes to the menu. Two years ago, they stopped buying plastic bottles, a subject they don’t mention because they do it out of conviction, not to boast about it.
Florencia 30, on the corner of Calle Hamburgo, Juárez, Mexico City
Hours: Sundays and Mondays: 1pm to 6pm / Tuesdays and Wednesdays: 1pm to 11pm / Thursday to Sunday: 1pm to 12am.
Text and photos: Guénola Bally