When we talk about a concept of a restaurant, we are referring to the sum of the certain factors and ideas that are reflected in a project. The kitchen is undoubtedly the most important part, but for a gastronomic experience to be full, it has to be surrounded by other variables such as environment, warmth and quality of the service, the temperature, the comfort, etc. Detapaencepa by Oscar Cidanes collects this sum of elements so valued in traditional restoration and updates them to create an effective formula in all its aspects. The restaurant began its journey in 2006 and in all that time it has become one of the most regular and reliable proposals of Galician gastronomy, one could say that it touches different styles with the amazing virtue of always reaching an excellent level. To carry out the experience, it is highly recommended to book as early as possible because the restaurant usually has full capacity.
It is located in the central street of Vigo Ecuador, in the section opposite of the bustling Gran Vía, which gives an air of serene tranquility that contrasts with the nerve that is perceived within the establishment. The structure of the building divides the premises into two heights which allows creating two totally different environments. In the lower area where the customer is waited on, we find the bar, a mix of high and low tables, which leads to a more conductive area for tapas and wine by the glass. The upper level is apparently more formal, thanks to the beautiful room with stone walls, large windows and a combination of square and round tables with a classic cut. However, this is one of the strengths of their concept, the menu, the recommendations of the day, rigor and discipline are the same for both spaces, so it is up to the client who decides where he/she wants to be seated depending on what the occasion entails. A more informal atmosphere and service is in the lower part that is normally quieter and more intimate.
Depending on the season, the menu is made with emphasis in certain Galician products, although the contribution of products from other areas of the peninsula is not renounced as long as the quality is up to par. The creations are proposed in a format of tapas with their varieties of tostas, cheeses and salads or in traditional format with spoon dishes, meats, pasta and fish that stand out for the perfection of their dishes. The daily demand in the restaurant makes it possible to offer a variety of fresh products of the highest quality and each day several recommendations are proposed outside the menu, always with the predominance of fish from the Galician estuaries. During the week there is also the possibility to opt for the speed of a daily menu or for the versatility of a gastronomic menu.
It is quite an experience to be advised suggestions from the staff at Detapaencepa, to end up choosing delights such as Galician clams in the pan or steamed cockles and continue with more local entrees such as chocos de la ria with arugula pesto or monkfish, scallop, shrimp and mussels. We recommend that you go in with the idea of sharing tapas at the center of the table, although it is almost impossible to say no to dishes such as steamed sea bass with potato and vegetable foam or its already famous lamb shoulder. This section also highlights the grilled hake with broken potato, crunchy apple and sweet tomato, the large sole cut up and fried or the braised Iberian pork cheeks. The pastry in the same line is impeccable and presented as 10/10.
Another distinguishing feature of this restaurant is their selection of wines, the winery and the importance given to this section, to the point that Oscar Cidanes, the creator of the invention, was elected the best sommelier in Galicia in 2009; adding curiosity and interest in the diner by listening to the advice and explanations about the selection of wines and their pairings. The dedication and enthusiasm for the wine world brings together the whole process and conditions the atmosphere of this restaurant. There is a predilection for wines that reflect the personality and identity of small producers both national and foreign, but there is also room for the great classics and their recognized labels. Detapaencepa is already an institution in Vigo.
C/ Ecuador, 18. Vigo
Telefono: 986 47 37 57
Hours: Monday through Saturday from 12:30 to 11 PM
Photographs: Jesús del Río
Text: Víctor Sarmiento