Eat 17 offers British food with an international touch in East London.
The O’Connor brothers began their adventure in Watlhamstow, in the Northeast of London, when they bought the typical corner shop and converted it into a grocery store with artisan pizzas and burgers. Shortly thereafter, from their kitchen emerged what remains one of their star products today – their infamous “Bacon Jam”. Chris invented it while experimenting with how to improve their burgers. The sauce is a mix of onion marmelade and smoked bacon and is sold in stores like Selfridges.
According to Chris, they had been looking for a space near Chatsworth Road in Hackney when they decided to take the reins of the old Brooksby’s Snooker Hall, a billiard hall that opened in 1914 as “The Electric Cinema”. The restaurant shares an entrance with the grocery store and the burger bar in the basement, all owned by the same family. The decor of the restaurant upstairs is reminiscent of something from a Fitzgerald novel.
They offer a cosmopolitan menu with local ingredients at a reasonable price. The hamburgers are surprising with their unique mix of flavours, like the chicken burger with sour cream, cabbage, garlic aioli, tomato sauce and jalapenos, or the pork with chirozo marmalade, cured manchego cheese and spinach.
The entrees draw on different cultures. From noodles with leeks and mushrooms with a homemade spicy sauce and peanuts, to the zucchini soup and ham, red chicory, celery, peanuts, rosehip and sherry.
The chef recommends the grilled lamb served with spinach with cumin, yogurt and eggplant. A delicious dish, not overly abundant, of tender pink meat.
It’s worth trying the only vegetarian option among their mains: the brocolli with shallots, lemon yogurt, cabbage and eggs. The dukkah crusted cod served with beet puree and vegetables is another dish that doesn’t disappoint.
The broccoli tempura, with pomegranate and soya sauce is one of the most popular items and a good option for those who aren’t huge broccoli fans, as the taste is very well camouflaged. Among the desserts, Chris recommends the banana pudding with custard. The homemade ice cream is another sure bet.
It’s also worth your while to check out the bar and its list of appetizing cocktails, and spend a little time enjoying the ambiance of the place.
Eat 17
64-66 Brooksby’s Walk
Homerton, E9 6DA
Price: 20-30 euros
Text and photos: Mónica R. Goya
Translation: Annie MacDonald