Tiring of Japanese food is not within our plans. Each time there are more new places, some that advocate tradition, others that fuse to infinity… And now, even one that invites this with Asian dishes. The restaurant in question is called Kanbun, and although it is not within the usual gastronomic circuit, the elegance of the dishes and space makes it well worth a visit. Conceived as an elegant restaurant, it is almost more cozy than sophisticated because it is made to have a good time with friends. The menu offers a wide selection of perfect fusion dishes for the pecking at the center of the table.
Let no one go looking for tradition, here Asia merges in the broadest sense of the word: Japan, China, Vietnam, Thailand… All are on the plate, and to make matters worse, with additions that would make the hairs of a purist of these kitchens, like putting cream cheese on a maki or crunchy onion to an uramaki. But the fact is, that it works and tastes, and as more than purists we are disfrutones, we throw ourselves into it.
The menu is almost an illustrated book of everything that is served there, so it is better to let yourself be guided by your server or by the look of the dishes. To start with something fresh that will triumph in the hot months, they bring us a Quinoa Salad, a kettledrum tomato at the base with crumbled tuna on top and covered with crunchy quinoa. Along with the salmon tartare with avocado, french mustard, soy, roe and sesame; a classic that shows the good product they handle at Kanbun. The gyoza of the house is a good way to start, made with chicken and sautéed vegetables, watered with a very tasty chicken broth reduction.
Asking for any kind of roll is as fundamental as it is complicated (again we emphasize the size of the menu). But, undoubtedly the one that triumphs is the Tommy, a classic that has been in Kanbun’s menu since it opened its doors. Stuffed with red tuna, covered in a house-made sauce that does not disclose the secret, and with crunchy onion. They are followed closely by the Uramaki Kanbun, salmon marinated with avocado and cucumber, wrapped in nori seaweed and with rice on the outside (come on, as it is a lifelong uramaki) and with spicy chili on top, a touch of rock that takes out of the ordinary of a well-known roll.
There are also classic dishes such as Chicken Teriyaki, which does not innovate or lack that makes it. Made with the usual recipe, juicy, tasty and accompanied by grilled vegetables, all flavors that work together. And once you have tried the traditional dishes, make sure to leave room for dessert, because the Mochi (the ice cream covered in paste of mochigome rice) is homemade, and, is not gooey.
The experience does not end here. To this elegant restaurant with straight lines, lamps that although modernist reminiscent of Asia, and sobriety that contrasts with the gold-tone mosaics; one comes to have fun. Start by sharing the dishes and end by sharing some cocktails in the chill out area, where you finish writing the night, or you start, you never know.
Calle López de Hoyos, 327, 28043 Madrid
Phone Number: 913 886 166
Hours: Everyday from 1:30 to 4:30 PM and 8:30 to 11:30 PM
Average Price: 20 euros. Kanbun midday menu: 10.75 euros and Kanbun executive: 14.50 euros
Text: María G. Aguado
Photographs: Nacho Alcalde Ruiz