Brass and grill are forms that are in danger of extinction in large cities, as they usually involve two virtues that not all restaurants possess: the mastery of the one who handles them and a generous space to house them.In Rocacho, both worlds coexist, discovering one of the latest discoveries in Madrid to devote to this type of cuisine. With little more than a year behind him, he has presented his credentials in the capital about this concept of the Rock, which claims the power of the stone, transformed into firewood, coal and smoke, to offer the diner a product kitchen that do not need artifices.
The proof of this is his menu, with strong Mediterranean air, where we can find rice to taste – dry or sweet – like the senyoret, fish of the day and the jewel in the crown, the red and ripe meats of El Capricho, the great reference of the ox and cow of work, being the only place of Madrid capital where these are served.
However, they are not alone in this ambitious project. Before gripping the meat knife it is essential to be carried away by the appetizers, which tempt us in a kind of sea and mountain that will cost us to position ourselves. The lasagna of grilled red prawn is soft and mellow, crowned by one of these, as well as the cod breams with aioli, dyed the color of squid ink and with a certain resemblance to the traditional Madrid pavements.
Together with them, we also find pleasures that have not gone through fire, such as marinated sardines or carpaccio de matured steak, a good first step to get familiar with the textures and flavors of these meats.
The final shot is presented already with the difficult tessitura of meats or fish. Our advice is that you go in generous groups of three or four people, so you can share several dishes, even if they are major, to leave nothing of Rocacho without trying. The work cow of El Capricho is the main protagonist of the meeting, either in matured 45 or 90 days, although it is also supported by other ingredients of corral and field such as chicken picantón or lamb chops.
To them must be added an important dose of fish of the day, variable depending on the market, but when available, bet on turbot or hake tail is to win the horse.
To top it off, it is best to surrender to the sweet planet that Rocacho proposes to us, which is based on classic elaborations but lightened in its form, such as the Tart tatin of figs or for the chocolatiers, an impressive chocolate taco with caramel soup, with which You can put the sweet note to a day for the memory.
Phone Number: 914 21 97 70.
Average Meal Price: 50€-60€
Hours: Monday through Sunday from 11 AM to 11:30 PM, Kitchen open from 1:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. and from 8:30 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.
Text: Jaime de las Heras.
Photographs: Magdalena Puigserver.